UVB + Heat + Enclosure-Fit Matcher

• Enclosure footprint. A practical adult minimum (length × width × height) for a single animal, taken from common herpetological care references. Footprint is what lets you hold a real warm-to-cool gradient — bigger-with-a-gradient beats small-and-warm.
• Basking-bulb wattage band. A starting wattage range for an overhead basking source, given as a band because the right wattage depends on enclosure size and the gap from the bulb to the basking surface. Always set the final value by measuring the basking surface with a probe and tuning on a thermostat — never by wattage alone.
• UVB tube strength + mounting distance. A UVB index / tube-strength band and the mounting distance to the basking spot, matched to the species' sun exposure (hard-basking desert species want more than shade-dwelling geckos). Distance is measured to where the animal basks and accounts for any mesh in between. A linear T5 HO tube is preferred over a coil/compact bulb.
• Thermostat type. A dimming (pulse-proportional) thermostat for visible basking bulbs so they don't strobe; an on/off thermostat is fine for non-light heat such as ceramic emitters and mats. A thermostat is treated as non-negotiable, not optional.
• Gradient targets. A warm basking target and a cool-end target, given as ranges. The animal thermoregulates by moving between them, so both ends must exist and both must sit in range, confirmed with a digital probe on the surface the animal actually uses.

These are general husbandry ranges drawn from reputable herpetological references and manufacturer documentation — not bench measurements of named products, and not a prescription for your specific animal. Always verify the parameters for your exact species and morph. This is general husbandry information, not veterinary advice — if your animal is unwell or behaving abnormally, see a qualified reptile vet.